The bomber jacket occupies an unusual position in Vestium NY's work — it is simultaneously the most casual garment we make and, in its finest versions, one of the most expressive. Where a suit demands a specific relationship between fabric, construction, and occasion, a bomber operates on different rules. It is a canvas.
What makes a Vestium NY bomber jacket different from a production bomber is the same thing that makes any Vestium NY piece different: it is made once, to specific measurements, in a fabric selected for the person wearing it, with construction that will last as long as the garment is cared for. The result is a bomber jacket that fits correctly, is made from real material, and can carry a level of individual expression impossible in retail.
The Fabric Decision
The fabric choice for a bomber jacket is wider than for a suit because the formal requirements are absent. The main categories:
Velvet and Corduroy
Vestium NY's bombers in velvet and corduroy are among the most frequently commissioned pieces. Velvet — a pile weave with a distinctive surface sheen — and corduroy (structured wale pile) both bring visual weight and texture that suits in these fabrics cannot.
Corduroy construction options:
- Fine wale (thin ribs, 16–21 wales per inch): Quieter, more refined, suitable for dressier occasions
- Medium wale (11–14 wales per inch): The standard "corduroy jacket" look — textural but not loud
- Wide wale (4–8 wales per inch): More assertive, stronger visual texture
Velvet options:
- Silk velvet: The finest option; rich pile depth, cooler to the touch, more delicate
- Cotton velvet: Practical, warmer, more durable
- Polyester-blend velvet (not used at Vestium NY): The commercial version; avoided
Wool
A wool bomber in a Holland & Sherry or CARNET cloth bridges the gap between the casual garment and tailored clothing. The same mills that produce suiting fabric also produce heavier booked cloths suitable for outerwear — a bomber in a Harris Tweed-weight Holland & Sherry bouclé or a structured Loro Piana-weight wool is a different garment from a velvet bomber but occupies the same silhouette.
Specialty Fabrics
Artist collaboration pieces at Vestium NY have been executed in purpose-developed fabrics: the Supernatural collection with Yoshitaka Amano uses a silk-seaweed-recycled cotton blend engineered to print his illustrations with the color depth they require. These are discussed at consultation.
The Construction of a Vestium NY Bomber
A bomber jacket has a different construction requirement than a suit jacket. There is no canvas structure in the body — a bomber silhouette is built on the cut and the fabric's own hand rather than an internal architecture. The construction details that matter:
Collar: A ribbed knit collar (traditional bomber) or a shirt collar (a dressier interpretation). The collar choice affects the whole character of the garment — a ribbed collar pulls toward streetwear; a spread collar moves toward tailored.
Cuffs and hem: Ribbed knit cuffs and hem are the defining detail of the bomber silhouette. These can be matched to the body fabric or selected from a range of knit options — tonal, contrasting, or incorporating a color from an artist collaboration lining.
Lining: The lining of a Vestium NY bomber is a major opportunity for expression. A plain bomber in dark navy corduroy might be lined in a bold printed silk or an artist collaboration lining — such as the Supernatural collection's Amano-printed fabric. The lining is the inside of the jacket — invisible to the room, entirely visible to the wearer.
Pockets: Side zip or slip-in pockets, breast zip pocket, interior pockets as specified.
Zipper: A quality metal zipper in appropriate finish — gold, antique brass, gunmetal, or silver depending on the fabric.
Sizing and Fit for a Bomber
A bomber jacket fits differently from a suit jacket. The silhouette is more relaxed — a slight ease across the chest and shoulders, a clean fit through the body, a hem that falls at the hip or slightly above. It should move freely but not swim.
At Vestium NY, the measurement process for a bomber takes the same chest, shoulder, and arm length measurements as for a suit, with adjustments for the relaxed fit of the silhouette. The fit conversation is part of the consultation — do you prefer a closer cut or a more relaxed one? Will this be worn over a heavy sweater in winter or layered lightly?
Artist Collaboration Bombers
Some Vestium NY bomber jackets are made in collaboration with artists — linings developed from original artwork, fabrics hand-treated by specific artists, or construction details that reference the artist's visual language. These pieces are discussed at consultation and may not always be available.
If you are interested in a bomber that involves an artist collaboration element, reach out early. The production timeline for collaboration pieces is longer than for standard commissions, and availability depends on current collaboration status.
Lead Time
A standard Vestium NY bomber jacket commission: 4–6 weeks. A collaboration piece with artist lining or special fabric: 8–12 weeks (depends on collaboration availability).
Who Is a Bomber Commission For?
The practical answer: anyone who wants a bomber jacket made correctly, in real material, that fits their body and lasts. The stylistic answer: people whose wardrobes span tailored and non-tailored clothing, who want a piece that sits between the two without compromising either.
A Vestium NY bomber is not a casual piece in the sense of being a less serious one. It is a jacket made with the same attention to fabric, fit, and construction that goes into a suit — the silhouette is different; the approach is not.
Explore Vestium NY's explore custom bomber jackets.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabrics do Vestium NY bombers come in?
Velvet, corduroy, structured wool, and specialty fabrics for artist collaboration pieces. The full range is discussed at consultation based on what you're looking for in the piece.
How is a Vestium NY bomber jacket different from a retail bomber?
Fit to your specific measurements, real fabric from reputable mills, construction that will hold its shape over years, and a lining that is an opportunity for individual expression rather than a generic finish.
Can I bring my own design idea for the lining?
Yes. We work with clients to incorporate specific artwork, text, or design elements into lining fabrics. This is how many artist collaboration pieces have developed — from a client idea that evolved into a collaboration.
What is the price range for a custom bomber jacket?
Pricing is discussed at consultation based on fabric choice and construction details. Reach out for current pricing information.
Can I commission a bomber jacket as part of a coordinated wardrobe?
Yes — a bomber in coordinating fabric with a more formal piece (a corduroy bomber with a flannel suit from the same mill, for example) is an interesting wardrobe building approach. This is the kind of decision that develops naturally over multiple commissions.
Work with Vestium NY. Vestium NY makes bombers that start from the same place as every other piece: made for you, made once.