Most people who commission their first made-to-order suit don't know what to expect from the consultation. The unknown is part of what keeps some people from making the call. This is an honest, step-by-step account of what the Vestium NY consultation looks like — from the first conversation through fabric selection, measurements, and the order being placed.
Before the Consultation
The consultation begins before you walk in. We'll ask you about what you're making and why — the occasion, when you need it, what you already own that it needs to work with. This isn't bureaucracy. Understanding the purpose of the piece shapes every decision that follows.
If you have photographs of garments you like (the cut of a jacket you've admired, a color combination that appeals to you), bring them. If you have clothing that fits well and can serve as a reference, bring that too. The more concrete the brief, the more specific the result.
Step 1: Understanding the Brief
The consultation opens with a conversation about the garment's purpose. What occasions will it serve? How often will it be worn? What other pieces in your wardrobe will it need to work with?
This conversation is not formality. A daily business suit has different requirements from a wedding tuxedo, which has different requirements from a dinner jacket worn twice a year. The brief shapes the fabric selection, the construction specification, and the silhouette choices that follow.
Step 2: Fabric Selection
This is typically the longest and most enjoyable part of the consultation. We work through swatches from Holland & Sherry, CARNET, and other European mills — presenting options appropriate to the garment's purpose, the season, and the client's aesthetic.
The conversation at this stage covers:
- Weight: Is a lighter or heavier cloth more appropriate for how this piece will be used?
- Fiber: Wool, wool-silk blend, cashmere blend, or a specialty cloth?
- Surface: Plain worsted, flannel, tweed, herringbone, or something with more pattern interest?
- Color: We'll look at colors in natural light as well as under the studio lighting.
- English or Italian character: Does this piece call for the structure of Holland & Sherry or the drape of CARNET?
We're not here to sell the most expensive option. We're here to identify the fabric that serves the specific garment and the specific person.
Step 3: Style Decisions
Once fabric is selected, we work through the construction details:
For a suit jacket:
- Single or double-breasted
- Lapel style (notch, peak, shawl)
- Button configuration
- Pocket placement and style
- Lining choice
- Any custom details (functioning buttonholes, pick stitching, monogram)
For trousers:
- Rise (high or standard)
- Pleats or flat front
- Trouser width
- Cuff or no cuff
- Side adjusters vs belt loops
For any garment: Lining fabric selection — a subtle or expressive lining is one of the pieces of the garment that only the wearer and their intimates see. It is an opportunity for expression that doesn't need to be legible to the room.
Step 4: Measurements
Comprehensive measurements are taken. At Vestium NY, this goes beyond standard chest-waist-hip:
- Shoulder width and shoulder slope
- Chest, chest spread, and chest circumference
- Waist (natural and seat)
- Arm length (front and back) and wrist
- Torso length (front and back)
- Trouser measurements: rise, seat, thigh, knee, inseam, outseam
These measurements, combined with posture observation, feed the pattern. For clients who have been measured before, we have a base pattern on file and will adjust from it.
Step 5: Timeline and Confirmation
We confirm the timeline — typically 4–6 weeks — and the total cost based on the fabric selected and the garment type. The consultation ends with a clear order placed and the next step (typically a fitting, or for returning clients in established patterns, the finished piece).
The Fitting (if applicable)
For new clients or complex garments, there is a fitting before the piece is finished. A basted jacket is brought forward — the seams are loose, the canvas is partially set — and we assess the balance, the shoulder, the chest, and the overall drape. Adjustments are made before finishing.
Most clients with established patterns move directly to the finished piece.
Delivery
The finished piece is delivered or available for pickup in the timeframe confirmed at consultation. For clients outside New York, we ship worldwide.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the initial consultation take?
Most consultations run 45 minutes to an hour. The first consultation, which involves taking comprehensive measurements, may run slightly longer.
Do I need to know what I want before coming in?
No. The consultation is designed to help you understand the options and make good decisions. Come with a sense of the occasion and the garment type; we'll guide the rest.
Can I come in without an appointment?
We recommend scheduling in advance. Book here →
What should I bring to a consultation?
If you have clothing with a silhouette or fit you like, bring it as a reference. Any photographs of styles you're interested in are helpful. Otherwise, just come with your questions.
Is there a cost for the consultation?
No. The consultation is how we understand whether and what to make for you.
Work with Vestium NY. Vestium NY is a made-to-order tailoring studio with locations in Midtown Manhattan and Greenwich, CT.