Gabardine is one of the most practical and underappreciated fabrics in tailoring. It is the cloth that powered the modern trenchcoat, the preferred material for the cleanest-looking trousers, and the fabric that provides a smooth, slightly hard-wearing surface for a range of tailored pieces. Unlike the more obviously luxurious suiting fabrics — the flannels, the cashmeres, the fine wools — gabardine does its best work quietly.
What Gabardine Is
Gabardine is a tightly woven twill fabric — most commonly wool, though cotton, synthetic, and blended versions exist — characterized by its smooth, hard surface and diagonal weave structure. The tight weave gives it a firm hand and a slight sheen, and makes it resistant to wind and light rain to a degree that looser-woven fabrics are not.
The weave is a steep twill — the diagonal lines in the fabric run at a steeper angle than most twills (often 63 degrees from horizontal rather than the more common 45 degrees). This steep angle produces the characteristic smooth, slightly waxy surface.
Thomas Burberry patented a gabardine formula in 1879 — his treatment of the wool before weaving produced a fabric that was simultaneously weatherproof and breathable. The Burberry trenchcoat, made from this gabardine, became one of the most iconic garments in British fashion.
Gabardine in Suiting
Wool gabardine in a fine weight is an excellent suiting fabric. Its specific qualities:
Surface: The smooth, almost matte surface of gabardine is distinct from the rougher surface of tweed and the softer surface of flannel. It pressed precisely and holds a crease crisply — trousers in gabardine have a defined, clean break that other fabrics struggle to maintain.
Durability: The tight weave makes gabardine more resistant to snags and pilling than looser constructions. A gabardine trouser will outlast multiple pairs in softer wools.
Character: Gabardine reads as clean and precise. It is not the most tactilely luxurious of fabrics — it is firm rather than soft. But it has an authority that softer cloths lack.
The limitation: Because of its firmness and smooth surface, gabardine is slightly less breathable than open-weave tropicals. It is a three-season fabric — excellent in spring, fall, and moderate winter, but warm in high summer.
Gabardine for Coats
Gabardine's wind resistance and clean surface make it one of the best outer garment fabrics available. A wool gabardine overcoat sheds light rain, resists wind, and maintains its smooth surface through the demands of city travel better than softer wools.
Holland & Sherry produces gabardine cloths for exactly this purpose — coat weights in 14–18 oz. that provide both warmth and weather resistance. A Vestium NY overcoat in Holland & Sherry gabardine is a significantly different garment from a standard wool overcoat: the surface is more protected, the silhouette cleaner, the performance in New York weather considerably better.
Gabardine for Trousers
Many experienced dressers who want the cleanest possible trouser crease turn to gabardine specifically. The fabric responds to pressing in a way that produces a crease line that lasts through a full day of wear. Combined with the durability of the weave, gabardine trousers are among the most practical in a working wardrobe.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is gabardine fabric made of?
Most tailoring gabardine is wool — a fine Merino worsted in a steep twill weave. Cotton gabardine exists for casual and workwear applications. Synthetic gabardines are used in commercial clothing but are not appropriate for quality tailoring.
Is gabardine warm or cool?
Gabardine's tight weave makes it slightly warmer than equivalent-weight open weaves. It is best suited to three seasons — spring, fall, and moderate winter — rather than summer.
Why do Burberry trenchcoats use gabardine?
Thomas Burberry's patented gabardine formula produced a water-resistant wool fabric that also breathed — the tight twill weave repels moisture while the wool fiber allows air exchange. This made it ideal for the outdoor use the trenchcoat was designed for.
Does Holland & Sherry make gabardine?
Yes — Holland & Sherry produces gabardine cloths for both suiting and coat weights. Their gabardines are among the most consistent and high-quality available.
Can gabardine be used for a suit?
Yes. Gabardine suiting is particularly appropriate for trousers (where its crease-holding properties are valuable) and for three-season suits. It is less often used for full suits than for individual pieces.
Work with Vestium NY. Vestium NY makes coats and tailored pieces in Holland & Sherry gabardine and other technical wool cloths.