The Journal — Formalwear / Weddings

New York is one of the last cities in the world where black tie remains a genuine, recurring social institution. The annual calendar of galas, charity balls, museum openings, and cultural events provides more occasions for formal dressing than any other American city — and possibly more than any other city in the Western hemisphere outside of London. For the New Yorker who has invested in the right formal wardrobe, the city provides the occasions to use it.

Black tie gives women enormous latitude — and that latitude is where most of the confusion lives. Unlike men, who are working with a clearly defined uniform, women face a category that includes floor-length gowns, tailored pantsuits, jumpsuits, and a dozen interpretations between. The question isn't what's technically allowed. It's what the occasion demands, what the venue suggests, and what will look right in photographs that exist for the rest of your life.

A tuxedo is the most specific garment in men's fashion. The variables are narrower than in a business suit, the traditions are more clearly defined, and the consequence of getting it wrong is more visible — because everyone else in the room is wearing the same thing. This guide covers the meaningful decisions: lapel style, button configuration, fabric, and what each choice says about the man wearing it.