The Journal — Menswear

New York produces a particular kind of well-dressed man. Not the peacock of a fashion capital, and not the conservative uniformity of London's professional class. Something between: clothing used as a tool, worn with knowledge, in service of the person inside it. The best-dressed men in New York are not trying to be the best-dressed men in New York. That is, in fact, the point.

There is a version of New York dressing that exists in magazine features and television: the head-to-toe black, the oversized silhouette, the downtown street style photographed outside a fashion week venue. That version is real. It's also a very small slice of how New Yorkers actually dress.

One of the first questions people ask when they contact Vestium NY is about timing. They have an event — a wedding, an important meeting, a gala — and they want to know if there's time to have something made. The answer is almost always yes, but the quality of the result depends on how much lead time you give the process.

Most people buying a suit focus on two variables: fabric and fit. Both matter enormously. But there is a third variable — construction — that is invisible in the finished garment and determines more about how the suit looks and lasts than almost anything else. A full canvas suit is the construction standard that the tailoring industry considers correct, and understanding why requires understanding what goes on inside a jacket.