Twill and herringbone are two of the most fundamental weave structures in tailoring — so fundamental that understanding what they are, and how they differ, is basic literacy for anyone who buys serious clothing. Both are derived from the same structural principle; one is a regular diagonal, the other is an inverted-V pattern created by reversing that diagonal.
What Twill Is
A twill weave is any weave where the weft threads pass over and under the warp threads in a staggered sequence, creating a diagonal pattern in the fabric surface. The most visible version of this is denim — which is a twill. Suiting twills are more refined versions of the same basic structure.
The diagonal in a twill runs at a consistent angle — typically 45 degrees, though steeper and shallower twills exist. The direction of the diagonal (right or left) and the ratio of over-under (2/1, 3/1, etc.) determine the specific character of the fabric.
In suiting: Twill is the weave underlying most worsted suiting cloth. A plain 2/2 twill produces the smooth surface of standard worsted. A steeper twill (3/1 or higher) produces gabardine. The twill structure is what gives worsted suiting its characteristic smooth diagonal and its ability to press cleanly.
What Herringbone Is
Herringbone is a variation on twill. It is created by periodically reversing the direction of the twill diagonal, producing a pattern that zigzags in a V-shape — resembling the spine and bones of a herring fish, which gives the weave its name.
The reversal can be tight (every few threads, creating a small, fine pattern) or wide (less frequent reversal, creating a bold, chevron-like effect). Fine herringbone is barely visible as pattern; bold herringbone is an obvious, graphic element.
The Practical Difference in Suiting
Both twill and herringbone are appropriate for suits and sport coats. The choice between them is one of how much surface texture and pattern interest you want.
Standard twill (plain worsted): The invisible background. The worsted suit that reads as solid-colored is typically a twill weave — the diagonal is too fine to register as pattern from normal viewing distances.
Herringbone: Visible as pattern from near distances, depending on the scale. A fine herringbone in a dark grey or charcoal adds texture and depth without announcing itself as boldly patterned. A medium herringbone in a lighter grey or a classic brown is more clearly patterned.
Herringbone's character: The herringbone pattern has been associated with British and American tailoring for over a century. It reads as classic and traditional, with a slightly casual register compared to plain worsted. A herringbone suit works in most business contexts; a herringbone sport coat is one of the canonical pieces in the informal tailored wardrobe.
Herringbone at Vestium NY
Holland & Sherry produces herringbone cloths that are among the best available — the V-pattern is clean and even, the tonal variation is carefully calibrated, and the surface has the weight and drape appropriate for either a suit or a sport coat.
For clients who want their first non-plain suit fabric, a fine herringbone in charcoal or mid-grey from Holland & Sherry is often the recommendation: more interesting than a plain worsted, less assertive than a check or a bold pattern, and appropriate in virtually any context where a plain suit would be worn.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between twill and herringbone?
Twill is a diagonal weave structure running consistently in one direction. Herringbone reverses this diagonal at regular intervals, creating a zigzag pattern. All herringbone is twill; not all twill is herringbone.
Is herringbone appropriate for a business suit?
Yes. A fine to medium herringbone in a professional color (charcoal, mid-grey, navy) is appropriate for most business professional contexts. Very bold herringbone in a casual color reads as sport coat territory.
What scale of herringbone is most versatile?
A fine to medium herringbone — where the V-pattern is visible at close range but reads as textured rather than prominently patterned from a distance — is the most versatile. The pattern adds surface interest without the commitment of a bolder check.
Does Holland & Sherry make herringbone suiting?
Yes — herringbone is one of the consistent weave structures in Holland & Sherry's suiting range. Their charcoal and grey herringbones are particularly well-executed.
Can herringbone be combined with other patterns in the same outfit?
Generally, one patterned piece per outfit is the rule. A herringbone suit with a striped tie and a checked shirt is too much. A herringbone suit with a solid shirt and a solid tie works well.
Work with Vestium NY. Vestium NY makes bespoke suits and sport coats in herringbone and other classic weave structures from Holland & Sherry and CARNET.